Neah Bay, WA to Newport, OR to Coos Bay OR

Well... we just arrived in Coos Bay! It was an 80 nm trip and we left at 0300 dark so we could get out of the bar of Newport ok and more importantly get to the Coos Bay bar at the proper time which is the end of the max flood. It took us 13 hrs and we primarily motored with some motor sailing to keep to our strict time frame.  Pheeeeww. There are Gale force winds farther south 9/1-9/4 predicted and seas possibly 15 to 17 ft Sunday and Monday so we are staying put for now and enjoying what Coos Bay has to offer. We are excited to have some days to be mellow since being very busy since our arrival to Seattle. I know we left our jobs but the boat thing is truly a FULL-TIME job. There is constant work to be done on the boat and everyday chores like laundry and grocery shopping can be all-consuming.
We are looking forward to having some more time to enjoy our surroundings in Coos Bay. Newport was a great town with many quaint shops and restaurants and I did sneak in a few runs, hence the early morning fog pics below.

My last post we were in Neah Bay and we actually left the very next day 8/25 and it took us over 50 hours to cover 248 nm to Newport. The sea state had big swell and cross swell. I cannot say the wind was too much and indeed not enough as we motored a fair bit but we did get a broad reach to downwind sail at times. I definitely prefer sailing for the motion and no loud motor.  Sailing is so peaceful! When we arrived at Newport our boat was trashed and after sharing 3 hours watches with little "real" sleep we were quite harried when we arrived finally to Newport. Additionally, the stress level of crossing a bar added to the maxed cortisol levels.  There was minor nausea on my part and Stephen did not fare so well. His usual stand by a medication called Marizine from S. Africa ( similar to meclizine and promethazine) did not work out so well :(. We were spent! That was my first offshore passage and he has done a few but this was definitely bigger then what he has previously experienced. We were glad to take a few days to get our bearings and put Soulstice back together again! This also included fixing our water pump, working on wiring for navigation lights, and fixing a broken solar vent. As I said always work to be done.

But... we did get a break and were elated to find out the Rogue brewery was on the marina site!!!!

Only about an hour in the slip and enjoying a beer. I forgot to mention the wind was HOWLING when we docked and Dave and Kelly were behind us. It was an amazing docking job by Stephen -TRULY - no one around for dock line help. We met Keith the Harbormaster who is 78 yo young and very laid back and cool. He spent 10+ years in the S. Pacific and welcomed us all there with some great life stories.  

Anxiously awaiting for crab scraps from the fisherman

Sunrise on way to Coos Bay this am.  Glass outside. 

Coast Guard training right outside of channel markers for Coos Bay with the fishing boat. 

Neah Bay

So we have been in Neah Bay waiting out some weather and enjoying Makah Days - the local tribal celebration of the Peace Treaty. The main street is closed off and there are many festivities including canoe races, dancing, and fireworks. The celebration food is primarily Indian tacos and fry bread. We ate both! The fry bread reminds me of a triple layer thick funnel cake from Ocean City MD. No powdered sugar but instead they put butter and a berry preserve. Blackberry was our choice of course. Despite eating all the blackberries we can find on every side road in the State of Washington we still want more! We also tried some whale jerky as a cruise ship, unfortunately, hit a humpback and the tribe was able to harvest the whale so it was not to waste.

It is great to watch fireworks from the boat - all the comforts of home (aka snacks and booze) while anchored out. Best seats in the house!

Another excursion was to Cape Flattery - we took the local bus which is normally 25 cents but was free due to Makah days to give us a head start as it was 7 miles one way just to the trailhead. The trail is only 1.2 mi RT and is very scenic. The Pacific Northwest forests always make me feel like fairies and gnomes are running around in there ( of course they are 👀)

Tatoosh Island,  approximately 0.5 miles off the coast and there is a lighthouse on the island but my iPhone camera does not do it justice. I think I need to invest in a better camera. 

Cape Flattery

What a great trail...

Dave, Kelly, and Stephen

Oh yeah and a little engine room time for me. Changing our dual Raycor fuel filters- our engine sits under our companionway stairs.  They looked great so we were happy - we will love on our Yanmar diesel engine so she loves us back!

We have arrived in Freshwater Bay after leaving Orcas Island early this am. We will be meeting up with Dave and Kelly here to continue on our journey to Neah Bay. We had a great time at Orcas Island with some paddle boarding and hiking. We hiked up to Mt. Constitution, elevation 2,399ft, which is the second highest mountain on an ocean island in the CONUS. It was a great hike up with gently switch backs and spacious trail. We hiked up along Cascade Lake and we were able to hike down a different route seeing Twin Lakes and Mountain Lake. These fresh water lakes surrounded by temperate forests and ocean are spectacular. The temperature was warm and invited us to swim in them.

Anchored out in Port Townsend 

Homemade Salmon burger with red onion, panko bread crumbs, tarragon, dijon mustard, Serrano pepper...  Thank you to Matt and Amarha Kalush in Alaska who sent us a generous supply of salmon they caught!!!  These guys came to visit us in Shilshole as well and helped us put the name on our boat. 

Our dinner table in the cockpit - best waterfront view every night

Soulstice anchored right in front of the Rosario Hotel. 

Cascade Lake 

View from top of Mt Constitution - smokey from BC fires. Could not appreciate any peaks in the Olympic NP.

on the Moran's lookout Tower at Mt. Constitution in Moran State Park

Bringing up anchor this am I was surprised by this visitor. This little guy was returned safe to sea.  

Dave and Kelly arrive on Arctos to Freshwater Bay!!

See our website for tracking us: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SVSoulstice

See you next time

Day 1 off the hand rail

Stephen and I officially have cut the dock lines.  We know some people actually cut their dock lines but we have spent so much money we just in a symbolic gesture had our friends untie them😜.

We had our last day in Ballard yesterday tying up a few more loose ends, one more chance at a close laundromat and of course one more night of fish tacos, wings, and 32 oz plus size beers with fun folks!

Ali and I are pointing to a picture of our boat in the Sloop that is "5200'd" to the wall. Previous owners had a pic of her in Mexico. 

The usuals and some unaccounted for(s) at the Sloop 

Last day at gym and FREE shower, oh yeah, not really but feels like it because no quarters necessary:)

Yummy Mexican in Ballard 

Our old hood

Stephen loved the sandwich porky'S revenge and I liked the Chipotle RB - they have a ton of amazing sandwich combos and don't forget the pickles!

Leif Erickson Statue in the marina and they have a new Vikings museum in Ballard - Stephen's dad sent him a book on the  history of the Vikings in hardback for some inspirational reading. 

Shilshole in the background this late morning, smokey and a marine fog layer

John Farnsworth, our recent dock neighbor and recently retired professor of Santa Clara University holding our bow line. He is a published author with his most recent release this November titled: Coves of Departure: Field Notes from the Sea of Cortez. A wealth of information on the natural history of Baja that we needed more time to tap  into... get the book everyone! 

Robbie on the opposing dock giving us a send off with a cup of coffee and "Tatonka" send off! 

Eric and Ali and dock neighbor Mark 

Restaurant close to the marina with great views

forgot to mention we snuck in this amazing concert with good friends Dave and Kelly who will be buddy boating with us to Mexico! 

This concert was at the Safeco Stadium. We got a slip at the Bell Marina downtown, walked to and from the concert, slept in our own bed that night and made chocolate chip pancakes with mimosas to enjoy with our friends in the morning. I love moving our house to our fun events. 

Racing in Port Townsend tonight 

Yep, thats our feet under blankets enjoying the smokey sunset - our first official night of cruising! 

Yep this is a good life!

Stephen is a FABULOUS COOK!!!! He made these tacos the other day with just "hands on" ingredients and we both wanted a repeat tonight: Eggplant, red onion, red peppers, garlic, olive oil, special seasoning, and nectarines - SOOO GOOD!!!!  

our route today is as above - plan to head to Orcas Island after our PT visit,  which is a bit out of the way for Neah Bay but we are cruisers as we said. In PT,  I want to go to the rigging store of Brian Toss (I am making some soft shackles:) , there is an oyster stew in our future here as well and additionally good Fort Worden strolling/running fun.  Next update will probably be in Orcas Island with a Mt. Constitution hike planned.