ENSENADA, MEXICO

ENSENADA- Our 1st port of Entry to Mexico

November 16 to November 25

Welcome to Mexico! Ensenada is full of friendly and helpful folks and it ALWAYS has something going on to keep it lively! This was our first port of entry to Mexico and we knew it would come with some challenges. We arrived to Baja Naval Marina on November 16, 2018, in the morning with SV Arctos after an easy night departure from San Diego. After arrival, we hurried to get to the port offices to start our arrival paperwork. A boat arrival is just like a plane arrival and requires a visit to customs. It also includes a visit to the Port Captain, Immigration ( get your 180-day visitor visa), Customs (Aduana) and the Banjercito (pay for your entry and your TIP - temporary import permit). Stephen and I knew this would not be an "in and out" like other boats that had not previously been to Mexico. 

Soulstice, previously known as Hello World and previous to that, Shadow, had been in Mexico with each prior owner ( we are the 3rd owners). This complicated things as our boat have previous TIPs that were never canceled by the previous owners. Many owners often do this because the TIP is good for 10 years and what the heck... who knows if you would return to Mexico in that 10 year period? So,  it is often not canceled.  Folks..... if you have a boat with a TIP on it and go to sell it, PLEASE! PLEASE! cancel it to avoid a HUGE hassle on the next owners. Also if you plan to buy a boat, you definitely should inquire about this little tidbit. 

Stephen and I knew the previous owners had a TIP, so we proactively went to Ensenada in February 2018 to cancel that TIP. If the previous owner cancels it, it is no problem. If the new owner attempts to cancel the TIP is it difficult, to say the least. Well, we ended up successful on that journey ( it was not easy and I will not get into the details) only to find out when we wanted to apply for our new TIP that ANOTHER TIP was still on the record. How? What? Wtf!!! How could Hello World get a TIP when the TIP on Shadow as not canceled??? A different Mexican government agent handled the TIP prior to 2008 and records were not merged until we attempted to apply for us. We left in February feeling a success that one TIP was canceled and another still pending as we THOUGHT we completed the paperwork to get that arranged prior to our arrival this November.

 "Your paperwork was lost, " we were kindly told by the Banjercito, who we befriended after our February visit. This then delayed our Ensenada stay with the filing of new paperwork and several days wait due to "business days" to process and a weekend that included a celebratory holiday of Revolution day. We eventually got our TIP!!! Truly, the Banjercito, Beatrice was amazing and we are so grateful for all of her efforts to expedite the process. We have a kinship as she has many dogs including German Shepherds, a Schnauzer, a Husky and a Basset Hound and as anyone knows Stephen and I, we love dogs and miss our Petra very much. The night of celebration was with some other cruisers on the dock, Temoc ( our Harbor Master and it was his Birthday too) and Victor ( one of the many hardworking folks at Baja Naval Marina). 

I want to plug the Baja Naval Marina!  Temoc and Victor, whom we interacted with the most, truly are kind souls. Temoc is the Harbor Master and maintains the character as your best friend here and it is genuine. He helps everyone get their paperwork done on entry when it is a simple case as most are and completes your exit paperwork,  just as a courtesy. He is available and interested in all the folks who spend time in his marina. We were very impressed with his professionalism and efficiency but more importantly his extremely kindhearted nature. Victor is another friendly face you see daily working hard on the dock, always smiling and willing to help out in any way to make your stay pleasant. We would recommend the marina to anyone who brings there boat down to Ensenada without a doubt! 

Our extended stay in Ensenada was due to our TIP process, Mexican Revolution Day, weather and unfortunately Stephen succumbing to gastroenteritis we suspected was infectious. Our buddy boat, SV Arctos checked in and checked out (Nov 15-Nov 16) and we did not want them to wait for us since we knew we would be delayed.  We were already surrounded by familiar faces on the dock with SV Nanatuck, a Canadian couple from the Yukon ( Mike and Heather) we met back in Morro Bay as well as SV Calypso, another Caliber 40, Robert and Karen, who we also originally met in Morro Bay. Additionally, every day there were more and more cruisers pulling in to add to a list of friendly faces. 

This stay included one of our most social stays filled with many potlucks on other folks boats including ours and many nighttime taco outings! We normally try to cook and eat on the boat to save money but when 75 cent tacos are staring you in the face it is hard to say no:) We had some great local food and shared some fabulous meals with folks. We had tacos the night of Thanksgiving and that seemed perfect to us, but we were lucky enough to have some turkey the next day on Amante, a large catamaran, that hosted our entire dock to a Thanksgiving dinner. We enjoyed the regular fixings and other delicious dishes supplied by other cruisers. It was a great party and even though I love our space on Soulstice, a catamaran is definitely a better venue for hosting a large group of cruisers for a party! I do have to apologize as I did not get pictures at all of these events. I am practicing Mindful travel which includes just enjoying where you are and not documenting everything despite my blogging responsibilities - ha! That's my way of saying I forgot,  I was lazy, I was truly being in the moment, etc....

Stephen and I did venture out for a touristy day of wine tasting in the Guadalupe Valley. Stephen may deny this but he was whining initially about my purchase of this touristy day. He will then tell you he had a great time and it was truly one of the highlights of our stay. Guadalupe Valley produces over 90% of the wine in Mexico. We went on a tour with a company called the Wine Route and went to 4 wineries. Our favorite was called the Missiones de California, which is organic. The winemaker, Raoul was a delight and started out in his vineyard discussing his winemaking and harvesting process. We enjoyed the most intimate tasting we have ever had. We sat at a table with 5 others and him. He taught us how to taste the wine and it was complimented by fig and guava marmalade, olive tamponade, and olive oil,  all homemade by his daughter and wife. Stephen and I have been to many wine tastings but never anything so authentic and a genuine exhibition of someone's passion of winemaking. 

We are looking forward to heading farther South and getting to some warmer weather to allow for some snorkeling, diving, and spearfishing. I did get a fishing rod and we will continue to troll with handlines on the way hoping to get some dinner. Keep ya posted on any success! We only have a tiny freezer so we are mindful of fishing practices. Not sure of our next stop, we are thinking San Juanico to get caught up with our surfer friends, possibly Magdelena Bay and then Cabo San Lucas should be soon. It has taken us quite some time to get down the coast but we are going at the speed of life as Stephen likes to say. 

The marina is right next to this very LARGE Mexican Flag! It is a gorgeous flag and this picture does not do it justice but the sky was very attractive that night! The marina is right by this flag so it was easy to find always and you could not help but be impressed by this flag. 

Guadalupe Valley

Painting at the Wine Museum in Guadalupe Valley I liked

Again, another painting I liked in the Wine Museum

In the cellar of one of the wineries and above you can see they use bottles to enhance the light that shines through

Colored water fountain in the plaza with flag and right next to the marina. I found this fountain mesmerizing every time. Everyone should have one in their back or front yard:)

Caught a great sunset with Soulstice in the marina 

Raoul! 

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My favorite winery and tasting of the day!

Revolution Day Parade

Our Heroine! Beatrice the Banjercito!! We are sooo grateful to her! She helped us tremendously

The TIP celebration and Temoc's Birthday night out!

I needed to hang a line so we could put our Mexican Flag and Stephen also requested a little 303 action on the radar reflector and tricolor light ( 303 is a UV protectant spray on product we love) 

Playa Hermosa just down from the marina afforded me many great runs/walks

Navionics ( our navigation software on the ipad)  showing our soon to be international crossing 

San Diego

San Diego

Our last U.S. port before heading into Mexico! We have been here for a little over 2 weeks ( Oct 30-Nov 15, 2018) and it has been busy and fun. Stephen's mother, Renee Poehls from Leesburg, Virginia came for a visit from November 1-7 and interspersed were visits from my longtime friend Lynne Ludivig who has been in SD for the last 6 years. Renee also has a sister, Mary Ann who lives in Escondido and so we had some visits with her and husband Robert. 

Stephen and I left Catalina for an overnight sail to San Diego the night of my birthday, October 29. We arrived earlier than expected and hung out in the bay awaiting some light before transiting farther into the bay since it was a new port for us. We were fortunate enough to get a marina slip at the Glorietta Bay Marina in Coronado. We wanted to have a slip secured for Renee's visit and not worry about dinghy rides back and forth with Mom visiting. She was a trooper and stayed on the boat and got used to marine life. Stephen had just bought a new chair for the cockpit and she perched herself into this chair and would enjoy reading in the cockpit and checking out the great scenery. 

Coronado is a gorgeous area and we really enjoyed our time there. There is cute downtown with restaurants and shops as well as a great beach literally across the street from the marina. They have a great trail that extends over 13 miles to Chula Vista. The Naval Airbase and the Naval Amphibious Base are right in Coronado. We saw these men and women doing their morning PT so it was only fitting we did too:) It was a relaxing stay there and the staff at the marina, Ramona, Phillip and Alex were terrific. 

The pics below start from the end of our trip to the beginning. A quick summary though is our arrival on October 30th in the morning. Lynne met us at the boat the next day and enjoyed a brunch, we went to the beach and then she drove us back to her house where we enjoyed Halloween night in her neighborhood. The next day we headed back to the marina and met Renee, who just completed her 1st Uber ride and had a very positive experience. We spent the next 7 days spending time with Renee, Renee's sister Mary Ann and husband Robert. One of those days we took Lynne, her boyfriend Steve, and Renee out for a day sail in the bay and then had a nice dinner back on the boat. 

After Renee left on the 7th, Stephen and I got back to work doing the rest of our boat projects. Stephen wanted to replace our faulty water gauges, install and commission our Single Side Band radio, and install a  lock to our companionway, all of which he did successfully! We also needed to get some boat insurance details worked out with our new cruising plan to Mexico and attempt to revisit our TIP issue. The TIP is a temporary import permit that Mexico requires when bringing a vehicle or boat into Mexico. I won't even go the details of this but let's just say if your boat had a TIP on it before and it was not canceled, the waters get muddy, and now you are involved in a swirl of Mexican government red tape. Uggh. Unfortunately, this is our story and it does put a tiny damper on our excitement to get farther south and add another country to our cruising resume to include Canada, the US and now Mexico. Not bad after only buying the boat in January 2017 and not living aboard full time until July 2018.  

During this time as well we moved our boat to the Silver Gate Yacht Club on Shelter Island to enjoy the benefits of having multiple marine stores in walking distance. This also includes having Bali Hai, well known for their bomber Mai Tai's also a 5 min walk away. Lynne and Steve had us over for there incredible Friendsgiving and we had one more dinner at a great restaurant called Ketch before our international departure tonight to Mexico.  

Other notables of this trip included a successful paddleboard repair for me, courtesy of Uli Paddleboards in Carlsbad, a successful repair of Stephen's paddleboard by himself since just a small area of delamination on his board ( we suspected a tiny leak in Catalina and then the good old spray bottle of soapy water and I found the leak) and Stephen's purchase of a Riffe speargun so he can get us some dinner. We have a Hawaiian sling for me right now as the purchase of two Riffe spearguns is cost prohibitive at this time. I'm still waiting for warmer water:)

Next blog will be from Mexico!

Nautical Miles traveled approximately 1530 so far...

Dinner at Ketch with Lynne/Steve and Dave and Kelly. Last night before heading to Ensenada

Mai Tai's at Bali Hai and they conveniently have our intended route on the wall:) 

Single Side Band getting installed! Another boat project completed courtesy of Chief Engineer Stephen 

Yep, that is our galley countertop. As boat owners know well, your entire boat can be a disaster and then you put it back together to pretend like nothing happened. It would be like if you went through all the rooms in your house and emptied drawers of furniture and put all the contents on the floor, emptied your closets, etc... only to put it all back in one day. 

" Friendsgiving" Celebration at Lynne and Steve's house. They had over 35 guests! It was a fabulous event of great food and friendship. We enjoyed homemade caramel apple ice cream by a gentleman named Charlie that staggered most palates.

I do like ice cream obviously and was appreciating the "we deliver" sign as we are without wheels. Charlie's blew away BR or any other chain ice cream store. Although he confessed he used to manage a Ben and Jerry's.... just sayin'

 Stephen's mom Renee made it to San Diego to enjoy a week on the boat with us. She also has a sister, MaryAnn who lives in Escondido and spent some time with us in Coronado.

On the main strip, Orange Street, in downtown Coronado. 

In the galley, making some preparations for burgers to enjoy after a mellow sailing say with Lynne and Steve. 

Putting Steve to work on our grill! 

Down in the salon getting hanging out. Lynne and another friend Chris Hart came for a visit. I met Chris on a previous trip to SD visiting Lynne. He has a power boat and I was fortunate to enjoy a day of power boating on that trip after the night before enjoying the Oyster Festival and Thievery Corporation live! SD is fun town!

Renee and Stephen enjoying some Mother/Son time on SV Soulstice. 

We gave Steve the captain's spot! 

Stephen, Renee, Robert and Mary Ann - we enjoyed a great lunch at this restaurant that is adjacent to the Glorietta Bay Marina.  

Wowzers of a sunset!

Renee took many of these sunset pics with her Motorola phone and they turned out stunning

Halloween night in Escondido! Lynne and Steve dress up and invite some close family. We handed out candy to the local kids and jello shots to the parents! Boy, those parents were happy!

I had to improvise my costume and decided my Buffalo Milk hat from Catalina would suffice

This was day #2 of our arrival to SD and Lynne came down and met us for brunch on the boat 

Lynne and I have been friends since Montana! We worked together as nurses in the ER and have maintained our friendship through multiple moves on both our parts. She has an adventurous spirit and BIG heart! Grateful for our friendship

Beach in Coronado - quite empty this time of year - we really enjoyed long walks on the beach and great path for runs.  

Gelato at the Hotel del Coronado - This historic hotel was right across from the Marina as well. 

Just getting into San Diego!!