Soulstice in Port Harvey 

“With long hours of little else to do, I worked, as I did at sea, to cultivate a freedom from anticipation, that urgent thief who steals the minute-to-minute aware of life.” James Baldwin 

May 18-19th, 2023 

Reposition to Gowlland Bay, southwestern end of Quadra Island in am, the Transit Seymour Narrows at Slack tide evening of May 18 with anchorage in Cameleon Harbour on Sonora Island. 

Folks we are the move little by little. I am doing a Predict Wind Tracker and have been doing notes on that and so now that I have some time to write for the blog I feel like I already blabbed everything. 

Replay

So we left Drew Harbour on the last post to move over to Gowlland Bay to set up for now committing to the Johnstone Strait route. This idea was a great idea until we did get skunked with the forecast now giving “GALE WARNING” for high winds in Johnstone Strait this morning. 

BUT  prior to this news meaning a delay in our intentions to move north, never say “plans” in cruising ( like writing in the sand),  we did transit Seymour Narrows on the evening of May 18th at Slack tide with an ebbing current and it was perfect. It was a beautiful sunny day, with blue skies and the anchorage in Cameleon Harbour was completely secluded and picturesque. Note to self, regarding Drew Harbour and Cameleon Harbour, both warrant a revisit! 

Drew Harbour is definitely busier but it is located on the southeast end of Quadra Island which offers a landscape for a multitude of fun activities and my head was already buzzing thinking even of an Airbnb event with the girls for a week of fun in the future. I will come back! Cameleon Harbour on Sonora Island is more wild and solitude ever-present. This is more for a quiet time, real exploration, and the bustle of humans is lost. Both are very attractive in their own way. 

Cameleon Harbour was a short stay due to the need to get up early today, May 19th, in an attempt to catch the ebbing tide for the day and arrive before sunset at our intended Port McNeil destination. It is approximately a 75 nm goal but with the ebbing tide and our increased speeds, we were prepared for a 12-hour day with no problem. Initially, we were seeing arrival times of 1430 even 1330 at times but we knew once the current changed to a flood this would not be realistic. Even so, we had the attitude that as long as conditions are right, if we get in before the sun goes down, we are committed. 

We were cruising along this morning feeling quite accomplished. We looked at the weather last night but on the Iridium which is a satellite service as we had no cell service in Cameleon Harbour. The winds looked like under 20 and with 20 max being possible but after 1700. The problem with a satellite forecast is that it gives you only a 50k resolution at best and sometimes only 100k. We can get 8k but when we have internet service. There is a HUGE difference in the data points. 

We eventually got cell service in the Strait this morning and saw the new forecast now saying winds increasing to 20-30 knots in the afternoon. Afternoon when?? On Windy, another app I use, it showed a big gust spread but yes winds would be increasing later as well. 

When we hit an area called Kelsey Rapids, which was on Navionics but not noticeable to us, it was composed of large wave trains that had Soulstice almost at a standstill. We hate when we feel like we are beating up the boat, not to mention this is when things can break, tensions get high, and it is not fun. You start wondering why you are doing what you are doing. 

It was 0830 and that was the crazy thing… We had so much time left in the day even though we have been at it for 4 hours already. If Mother Nature would allow we could definitely get to Port McNeil no problem. We knew we would have to hunker down for the consistent high winds of 25-30 knots - even upwards of 35 knots forecasted on Sun - Tuesday but Port McNeil would be a great place. It had amenities and great protection.

Then the reality set in that was not an option today. We wouldn’t be able to outrun the winds and the flooding tide coming sooner than later would ensure that. The sea state did calm tremendously after those rapids and we made the decision to anchor in Port Harvey. Rated in the guidebook as very safe and protected from all directions but definitely not scenic. There is some type of industry going on here but not logging. Helicopters going in and out, many buildings on floats, minimal feel of solitude/respite. 

Again, this chosen activity like many others that include severe consequences for poor choices made can be frustrating but always a great tool for learning to deal with setbacks and surrendering to making the best and safest choices at the given time. Pushing on with a vacillating decision state is not ok. There is analysis paralysis but risk-taking for what benefit? Sometimes the gain is worth it but for us to get a few more nautical miles ahead in a journey of over 800nm is not there to weigh in. 

Ok, nuff’ of that. 

Well, we are in Port Harvey for now and hope to sneak out early morning to get the ebbing tide and see if another 20 to 30nm would be possible to make Port McNeil. Also, a well-protected stop to included getting fuel, water, dump trash, and internet. 

May 20th, 2023

NO GO for any further movement north.  The Johnstone Strait forecast via BC Coastal Navigation which I obtained from a  few friends via satellite texting to confirm the winds had increased for Saturday morning to include drizzle and fog. GALE WARNING through Monday basically.  We also spoke to a vessel transiting the channel around 0430 with a relay from Victoria Coast Guard to confirm some visibility defect to the mist. Winds 15 at that time but we would be out for a few hours. It we had some additional places to tuck in safely along the way we would consider but it would be 20nm to the best place. There are some anchorages but they are exposed to the currents and winds and are not a place to stay for overnight. It would be to pull over and make a plan where to go kinda thing or fix something, or take a short break. Not even leave your boat. 

We met a nice French couple yesterday evening who were in this anchorage as well on a double-masted freestanding catamaran that he built himself. The only other boat in this anchorage. They were here before us but unknown amount of time. They did a little recon of the area, talking to the “boss” of the industry on land. He has his own helicopter to go to and fro and most of the buildings are on floats. They are building barges apparently. There was a logging operation here in the past as well as a marina that shut down and but no remnants of that were noted to us. 

This couple had sailed from French Polynesia and spent last summer here in Canada. They loved it so much they wanted to transit to Alaska as well, so we will see them periodically I imagine along the journey. They too were avoiding going out in the Johnstone Strait. They were considering a back route which we evaluated but one of the channel areas is only 0.1 miles wide with significant currents upwards of 7-8 knots and lots of bull weed. Better for a motor boat ( no keel) or their type of boat ( catamaran)  with little to no draft and heavy displacement boats such as ours were to heed warning per the community edits. We decided to just to stay put. 

This anchorage is not as quaint as our previous ones but it has proven safe and with good holding. There is another anchorage around the corner a bit (10nm) but we would use up more fuel to get there and to get back into the channel when the time arrived. Additionally, it is more exposed to a heavier current so we would be anxious leaving Soulstice when going to shore or paddle boarding. 

Surrender to the experience! Today we will read, catch up on studying some topics we enjoy, do some exercises on the boat, and go out for a paddle board to explore. Stephen has been fishing off the boat but there are not a lot of rocks and just a flat bottom so not a great fish hang out. I think we can get some cell service if go closer to the channel and then we see the forecast again but unless it changes, and it certainly can, the system seemed to linger through Tuesday. I am glad we are not in the big open Pacific Ocean right now. 

It was overcast this morning and some dew on the deck. Stephen ran our diesel-fed heater the Dickinson for a while to warm up and dry out the boat. We had the boat all closed up last night and did not need the heater. We were definitely warm enough but in the morning we wanted to dry out any condensation/ boat sweat. 

We did go out and paddle board in the afternoon 2 times to feel like we did something. The sun did come out and there was wind but it was tolerable with the wind shadow. The barge business was going on and it is a decent operation with several buildings on floats, housing units on the shore and the owner has the R-66 helicopter we hear going back and forth. We did find 1 bar of phone service and confirmed the wind forecast was still not amenable to leaving before Tuesday. 

I got terrible news my cousin died but I hear he was able to leave the hospital and be at home during this time. He suffered from pancreatic cancer and was hospitalized prior to his death due to a metastatic tumor-related bowel obstruction. I was concerned it was going to be close to the end for him with my medical background. I was just very happy to hear he did leave the hospital. He may have been on hospice but unknown to me as I am only really with satellite contact at this time. I did expect his death unfortunately but it still did overwhelm me with sudden grief. I am not sure why… sometimes I think you can hold a lot of emotions inside and then it is another event that occurs that will cause the faucet of emotions to turn on. 

Additionally, I was saddened to hear a very vibrant nurse I knew in Montana had died as well. She was early 60s and I viewed her as a picture of health, physically and emotionally. I was informed she developed Parkinson’s and I know because she was so active that had to be very difficult for her regardless of her cheery disposition. I think a culmination of these events in addition to feeling “ stuck “ in this anchorage that is not overly appealing is not helping. 

It ended up being a calm night in the anchorage though despite hearing the wind howl outside. The rigging on Soulstice is how you can tell when the winds amp up. The water can be chilled but you hear it in the rigging. The lines etc.. on Soulstice are very secure so there is little to rattle outside. We did become experienced with eliminating those kinds of noises early on. 

May 21, 2023

We woke up again to an overcast, dewy morning. Very comfortable under the down comforter but once you leave that warmth, jackets need to be worn. Stephen got the heater going and coffee helps warm you up. We revisited the forecast as Stephen had a bar on his telephone. Tuesday still looks like a possibility, Wed possibly better but if we could move on Tuesday that would be great! 

This downtime has afforded the planning we did not do when back in Reno. It is hard to plan these kinds of trips when you cannot know what mother nature will do. Today we did look at the “classic itinerary” in our Douglas Guidebook and started to make notes, plot an intended route, and look at timing. We have flights booked from Juneau to Anchorage to see our dear friends Matt and Amahra for June 20th and it will be close. They live in Soldotna and were the couple who graciously spent time with us on Soulstice doing the passage from Cabo, MX to Hilo, HI, 23 days and 8 hours. And WE STILL ARE FRIENDS AFTER BEING ON A 40FT BOAT THAT LONG TOGETHER- whaaaa???? 

Anywho, today was socked in most of the day. I was still in a funk, to be honest. The weather today was dreary and overcast, the feeling of being “ stuck” in an anchorage, and of course, just feeling sad. We went for a paddle board and possibly a hike. We put the paddle boards up on the land but it was soggy and wet. We had booties on but there is no real trail and I was not into it. I’ll be honest boggy, wetlands are not a passion of mine. I did express this to Stephen. The forest looked amazing but it was going to bushwack no doubt. 

We did not see any bears but it was later reported to us by Mike, who is the owner/operator of the barge repair ( not building business)  that a large grizzly does like to patrol the shoreline often. He reports he is chill and not easily bothered. Nonetheless, I did not want an encounter. The decision was made to continue to paddle board around and so we did extend our last tour to an island further east in the channel. We noted a sunken sailboat today with the top 1/4 of the mast sticking out, an old aqua farming area, and another motor boat underwater in a different cove. I did feel that since 2 boats were underwater in the same area that does mean caution hahahaha.

On our way back to Soulstice, and my mood was lifting, just getting off the boat and feeling like I was doing something active, we paddled over to the floats with houses/industrial area. Two gentlemen with beers in hand, it was 4pm, walked out on the deck of a lovely shore home and we chatted about the area. Mike, who has lived in the area for over 25 years greeted us and another gentleman who owned the prawn operation and borrows dock space from Mike said hello. Mike’s helicopter, which was later clarified to be an R44, not an R66 as Stephen had thought, was coming in for a landing and Mike abruptly said, “You guys want to go for a helicopter ride?” What?? YES!! 

We docked our boards and ran up over to the chopper that had landed and cooled down. The pilot was refueling. Mike uses a tractor as his local transportation up and down the road. Ronny, the pilot, a 28 yr old Swiss, recently hired by Mike, and looking to get flight hours, greeted us. I got to sit forward and Stephen took a back seat. I have been in the Calstar Helicopter before for a ride around Tahoe and one other one in Hawaii years ago but never a chopper this small in size. It is an intimate setting:) He has a tiny dolly he takes off from and lands on. He reports he was a mechanical engineer doing well and in a higher managerial role in Switzerland but wanted to fly. He got his helicopter pilot’s license locally in Campbell River, CA. He wants to do air medical and hoist operations eventually. He is a climber, backcountry skier, etc.. and is very familiar with the outdoors. 

We had a great flight over the terrain including seeing the catspaws in the Strait and some back waterways. It was windy but Ronny handled the helicopter well and I cannot say there was any significant turbulence. It is always incredible to be able the terrain at that level to really understand the map of the area and in the Marine world it is called a chart. It really gives you a feel for the area. He did a nice buzz over Soulstice and he had before but THIS time we were in the helicopter flying over our lovely floating home! 

After we returned, we paddle-boarded back to Soulstice with a rejuvenated feeling about our adventure north. We made plans for Ronny to come over to Soulstice that evening for a cocktail and to see the boat. He has a kayak and joined us for a lovely evening talking about each other’s lives it was really nice to have company on Soulstice. She is a cozy boat. We had the Dickinson heater on with both our oil lanterns going. She was warm and inviting to our guest. He had the day off tomorrow so we made plans for another get-together. 

MAY 22, 2023 VICTORIA DAY

The morning brought some dew again and the wind continued. The sleep though was peaceful and again the anchorage was smooth with no rolling. Amazing considering 25-35 knots winds are just around the corner.  We were told a motor boat was It was cold and overcast again. The forecast though did improve for tomorrow and so the thought of being able to move on made my morning a bit more cheery. 

We met up again for another paddle board late afternoon and did a more extensive paddle closer to the channel entrance. You could see it was torn up at the entrance. We did get wind in the channel but were still able to paddle and attempted to stay in the lee of land when possible.  We saw loons, geese, tons of ravens, bald eagles, and robins. We paddled back by the sailboat wreckage and got some pics too.  See below. 

 Initially, we met with Ronny on the shore at the house where the cook, Cindy, lives. This house has 2 dogs which we met the day before but also she had 2 hummingbird feeders with soooo many Rufus hummingbirds. They were swarming the feeder and swooping us. They sound like little engines in flight. It was mesmerizing to watch. The only other time I had seen that many hummingbirds were in Canada at a bed breakfast years ago. Jim and Marie Freed will remember this, it was after a trip to canoe the Bowron Lake Chain up in BC years ago. It makes me think hummingbirds prefer Canada - ha! 

Ronny joined Stephen and me on Soulstice again after the paddle and we watched the great movie/documentary 180 South we had on the hard drive. We made popcorn with Old Bay sprinkled on top.  I like Old Bay on popcorn, eggs, veggies/ corn... Stephen now likes it as well. Ronny had never seen the movie before so that was fun to share it with him. It was inspiring reminding us that all BIG adventures have challenges and hiccups but also that it is about the journey and destination. I told Ronny I was not enjoying the anchorage really as there was little to do. He also has the same issue on his days off when he cannot get out with the helicopter. I feel like our visit was mutually beneficial as I needed to appreciate a place I was having a hard time appreciating and he needed the company of some folks who like to get outside and share some nice conversation. There are only a few people that work here and additionally, no roads out. The only way is by boat or helicopter. I do feel the meeting was serendipitous. I look forward to all the other new folks we will meet along the way as they always seem to become lifelong friends.

 He has the tracker and we plan to meet up again on the way back. Feeling grateful. Tomorrow we plan to move north! 

Heading into Cameleon Harbor

Cozy Soulstice - dinner time 

Cameleon Harbor

Clouds so cool that day especially with reflection in the water

Video of Lions Mane jelly fish 

Mini greenhouse snooze effect

Wine, appy's and cribbage!!

Mike's Barge Repair business

R44 overhead

Port Harvey - multiple buildings on floats and some lovely houses on short

R44 helicopter time 

View of Johnstone Strait on one of the windy days

Ronny and Stephen

Ronny !

Definitely not Mexico or Hawaii attire anymore 

Ugh - what happened? 

Back of the Port Harvey Inlet

Rufus hummingbirds!!!