SVSoulsticeAdventures: Rounding Cape Caution

May 28-29

Rounding Cape Caution and going the 70nm to Warrior Cove

Stephen and I got up around 0315 with plans to leave around 4 am for the long day to make sure if afternoon winds came up we would be safe in the the Fitz Hugh Channel. We had a plan to head for the Millbrook Anchorage only 39 nm from Blunden Harbor if we wanted to cut earlier. It was 30nm just to round the Cape itself so we head a few hours ahead of us regardless.

It was a spectacular morning and I got a few pics and posted them on the tracker blog. Placid and 1st Light is so peaceful. We went to weigh anchor and the soft shackle that we used to tie the snubber line onto the chain was too taught to get off. I have been doing a double wrap around the knotted end for security but because of the high winds in the anchorage, it made it difficult to unwrap and get the loop over the knotted end. Sometimes with my RA I struggle with little battles like this and thought Stephen might be able to give it the extra force to pull the loop over the knot but no success either. We even tried a marlin spike but nope. We were now 30 minutes messing with this and I said let’s just cut it. We did and the anchor was brought up pretty clean except a nice heavy dense mud pack on it. I usually let it drag in the water a bit to get this off but this time I even used the hook to push it off, more like jam it off with multiple stabs to get it off. It makes it too heavy to bring up and if it dries on there then the anchor will not set well the next time so we try to get the mud off 1st go around.

I didn’t even see any stirring on the other 2 boats in the anchorage or noted lights on in their cabin. Soulstice is hard to see in because we have to decorate window coverings and use a redhead lamp early on anyway to keep our night vision preserved. We made our way safely out of the anchorage and headed into the channel.

It was pretty quiet and our only traffic for a while was a tug carrying an enormous load of containers that were topped with cars, trucks, and even a boat. It is truly physics and engineering when you see these kinds of things. So much “stuff” hauled on a platform through water held by 2 long chains and a much tinier boat in front lined with tires front to back pulling it along. A water train basically but all the cars are stocked on top of each other.

Eventually, as the morning went on more and more traffic. Initially, motor boats, and then we did see the 2 sailboats from the anchorage. We thought we were doing well making 6-6.5 knots, but these guys were making 7.7-8 knots. One was on AIS, Misty Blue, a 44ft Cascade, and owners Ruth and Ken, who have done the Inside Passage greater than 7 times. Ken is a local HAM operator and gave the frequency for the local net here. It is called the Great Northern Net and they 3870 LSB. There is one net at 0730 and then another to follow at 0800 am PST. The first one, the net controller is out of Port Townsend, and the following out of Ketchikan. These are helpful because they usually discuss the weather. Once we left the Port Hardy area we could no longer get the VHF station for weather.

I decided to use some of the 150 minutes we get monthly free via the satellite service to call the weather number which is basically the same loop recording. They do weather at 0400, 1030, 1630, and 2130 daily. The other sailboat in the anchorage, Tenacious, is a 50ft Nicholson, and Patrick and Lydia are on that boat. We were admiring both boats in the anchorage. We do love our Soulstice and have put so much love and attention into her and she has treated us well. I will say Stephen does most of the grooming :) We have though been lately entertaining the idea of a 48-50 ft boat since we are staying more local.

A larger boat would make us faster but also afford us more room for guests. Also, to organize our gear and just feel less encumbered on the boat. She is perfect for us and truly that is all that matters but I would like dinghy davits again ( the Hydrovane on our stern prohibits that) so we don’t feel like getting the dinghy out is such a chore, longer water line to be faster, and bigger fuel tank. A larger fuel tank truly would be the best because carrying all these jerry cans makes the deck congested. Well, enough of that… I feel like I am cheating on Soulstice and we love her dearly, so Soulstice “ear muffs it”!

The day was long but pretty chill. We did see a large Disney cruise boat in the Fitz Hugh Channel. I do not want to insult anyone but a large cruise ship is not our cup of tea. We like the intimacy of being on our boat and a large “people aquarium” as Stephen once named them and it has stuck with us seems like herding cats and you lose that ineffable experience of being on your boat and having your own agenda.

Rounding the Cape itself was pretty benign but that is also because we picked the proper time/day to do it. As mentioned in my last post there are many ways to approach this channel but all have their own laundry list of hazards and recommended tips to achieve the same goal: rounding the Cape safely. Once you round the Cape you make turn starboard to enter the Fitz Hugh Channel and this is truly where you are in the “Inside passage to AK”. Stephen and I often think of the competitors in the R2AK and what a true accomplishment of going from Port Townsend to Ketchikan with no motor.

The channel did have some chop but not bad. We attempted to sail and did a few brief times but then it would be back on the nose. Anything to save a gallon of fuel and turn the engine off. Sailing is really blissful but when the sails flog or you constantly put one up and take one down not so much. There are a lot of terrains to complicate the wind pattern here which we are used to from Tahoe but basically it does mean getting a linear, steady flow of wind like in the open ocean is not always going to happen and so sail changes will be more often.

Eventually, we pulled into our little Warrior Cove. No one else here and it is a tiny cove. Depth went from 280 to 20ft quickly but we were able to find a bit of consistent flat bottom before setting anchor. The slope was quite impressive and the fish finder is where you can actually see it besides just looking at depths on the sounder.

Our evening was brief as were quite exhausted. We did take advantage of the engine running and got HOT swim step showers. Dinner was planned as we had some poblano peppers that had a short life span and so we made stuffed peppers with ground beef, cheese, and onions. A cocktail was enjoyed and we had shut our eyes by 2030!

May 29, 2023

The morning in Warrior Cove was brief with a planned exit of 615am. We slept in a bit more but still had a 45nm day planned. A stop to top off fuel at Bella Bella or Shearwater was planned as it is right in the middle of the day itinerary before our next anchorage 45 nm from Warrior Cove is called Oliver Cove. We also had an alternate anchorage called Morris Bay. It was a little farther east and we could avoid an area called Reid’s Passage that had some hazards. It was something you can navigate but we were considering this other anchorage that looked well protected with good holding and an easier entrance.

Early am there was a bit of drizzle but it stopped and by the time we weighed anchor, it was light out. We were leaving the anchorage and about to re-enter the Fitz Hugh channel when we saw a spout of water. It was a humpback! We slowed down to give her/him room and try to locate where they were headed. They stayed in the channel and we made a left ( south) and the whale turned a bit north. We headed out into the channel more giving a wide berth to the animal and now suspect there may have been 2. We did turn north and so did they. They gave a few breaches and then dove down.

We had heard from a young group of Whale educators with a table propped outside the Port McNeil visitor center that the humpbacks were out. They had a picture with several with names and I asked if they were tagged but they said no, they were identified by markings on their caudal/tail fin. The orcas are usually spotted later like July and August. We saw lots of humpbacks in Mexico, particularly the Banderas Bay Area, but also in Hawaii. We joked perhaps we have met before these majestic creatures that just crossed our path.

It was only 25 nautical miles to get fuel and right before a narrow entry to make the turn to starboard to get to Shearwater fuel dock was another humpback sighting. A last visual of a tail fin and that was it. Usually, when you see the tail fin it means they are about to dive down. A big fishing boat was racing up behind and I decided to slow down and let them enter the narrow spot 1st. Bella Bella listed as a potential fuel stop has had some structural issues and no longer is a service area but Shearwater just a bit south and east of Bella Bella does carry diesel.

It was a simple fuel dock and no one was on there. We were greeted by a young native kid named, Conner. His nature was quiet but very polite and helpful. I have found as usual, the Canadians including the youth, have always had this politeness about them and our brash US personalities could use some softening at times in my opinion. Anyway, it was uneventful as we only needed to top off the tank. We did have plenty of fuel but since Klemtu, another listed fuel spot between here and Prince Rupert, which is still a few hundred miles away, we wanted to take advantage of any fuel stop possible. I also unloaded some trash that his manager gladly drove over to the marina area for me. We appreciated the kindness of the local people.

We left the fuel dock and thanked Connor for his help. Diesel is a smidge over $8.00/gallon. After, we left out of there the winds picked up and we noted some white caps. There was no big storm forecasted but afternoon winds were noted to increase. I had internet for about 10 minutes - ha and was able to see on Windy, the NW/westerlies did have a gust of low 20s from around 1pm to 7pm. The winds themselves were forecasted more around the mid-teens. It became more choppy out as we headed due West at this time and Soulstice was losing purchase trying to motor through this. We decided we could sail and it would beat up the boat less as well. We would tack our way up the channel. We only had another 20 nm to go and it was a little after 1p.

We did consider turning just a few miles back and staying in an anchorage called Strom and just waiting it out until tomorrow, but it was early, the sun was out and high in the sky. What else do we have going on and why not sail our sailboat. 8 tacks later we were seeing the time to arrive get later and later. We were making progress up the channel but could not point too high, we were closed-hauled. We got speeds upwards of 5.5 to 6 at times but the ground covered was not as significant if moving straight forward. We decided to agree on a turnaround point if it was becoming a bit futile. Some swell from the outside was coming in as well. South Hecate strait was to the South of us and we were getting some wrap-around.

We decided we were not in any harm, just slow on time, the outside looked beautiful besides the chopped-up sea state and so we pushed on. We also agreed it was nice to sail as we have motored mostly. We are a good team doing the tasks, most of the time :) We did note the port side of the channel was less choppy than the starboard and decided the land mass must be giving it a bit of break wall/sea wall. We had a 100 ft Search and Rescue vessel that going to turn into the channel at us and a towing vessel that coming up the rear behind us. You do have the right away when under sail but regardless the rule of tonnage always wins. We decided to take down the jib and see if we could motor on the port side of the channel and we were making some progress at 2.9 to 3.4 knots. The motor was not caveating as much as she does in this kind of sea state. Boats do not like to sail or motor to weather. If we turned around the downwind sail would be glorious but did want to head farther north.

We motored long enough to have the large SAR vessel pass us and also for the tug with a big load to catch up and then gave him a radio shout that we would be making a turn North and would be putting up a sail. He said no problem and he scooted by us anyway at 6.5 knots. Once we turned a bit starboard and more north, the angle of wind would be better for sailing and would not really require tacking back and forth. The jib was unfurled once again and we pointed perfectly towards our destination.

We made it to Moss Passage and Morris Cove around 7pm. It was not super late but we were exhausted as we started off at 6:30am weighing anchor in Warrior Cove. The mileage was much less today but the sea state put a big damper on our time. Still, we were happy about sailing and laughed and said at least we could say we did not motor the entire way of the Inside Passage. We had all kinds of dinner ideas but a last-minute mashed potato with everything but the kitchen sink added to make them DELISH was made. The anchorage is TINY and I mean TINY with little swing room. It was a bit small for our liking and I felt like a bear could leave the shore and swim over and climb up on Soulstice’s stern easily. AAAHHH We did 2 anchor alarms, the laser range finder was used for a 360 reference of our circumference, and we passed out pretty quickly.