June 11-12th, 2023 Juneau
We left out of Deception Point Cove in the late afternoon/early evening of June 10th and went through the narrows, leaving the anchorage at 1745. It was an absolutely spectacular ride. The lighting for that time of day gave us incredible pictures. The entire ride was scenic, and I thought you could spend a week just in the Narrows.
In the middle section, which is 21 miles long, are lots of personal cabins but also places with docks and resorts dotted along the shoreline. It was not overcrowded or congested though, each place seemed to have a perfect little cove of privacy and intimacy. We really enjoyed this part of the passage and I look forward to doing it again very much. The reflective pictures again with the clouds, mountains, and water created several layers of colors and hues that created stunning photos.
We did not stop in Petersburg as originally intended due to feeling like we needed the service area of Juneau. Additionally, our buddy Dave lives in Juneau and could help us out with a car, an address to mail parts to if needed, and help coordinate logistics a bit easier if necessary. We had planned to arrive a day later anyway, so the hurried nature to get to Juneau was not a huge change in itinerary. We were grateful we were not that far away from a bigger port! We could have been “stranded” much more remote.
Our destination from Deception Cove to Juneau was 128nm and we could be there in 24 hours if we maintained a decent speed. That meant an arrival on the evening of June 11th. After going through the Narrows it was bigger channels, Frederick Sound to Stephen’s Passage, and the water conditions were calm. We could not turn off the engine to sail anyway. We did achieve some higher speeds with motor sailing here and there.
The night shift was not truly a night shift because full darkness never happened and there was always a bit of light to help with navigation. This also just helps out with your energy level. You feel less tired because of the light and also the enticing scenery that kept you perky. We did 2 hours of watches thinking we did need to stay alert and it was just one night. It did make for more shifts but it went well.
Stephen’s passage, the last waterway to Juneau, had a few icebergs outside of Tracy Arm and a few other spots but otherwise no big channels. We did get some acrobatics from some humpbacks along the way. Big breaches and pectoral fin slapping for the show!
When we arrived at Auke Harbor, around 1730 on June 11th, it was raining and the wind was howling!! The harbor is protected once you get in there with the chop but not the winds. We were going to get fuel but aborted due to the rain and winds. We did have fuel and would hit the fuel dock when we leave Juneau. We had intentions of being in Juneau for at least 2 weeks. We would visit with Dave this week and plan to keep our flight on the 20th out to Anchorage to see Matt and Amahra Kalush, in Soldotna. We were excited to spend the Summer Solstice on June 21 with good friends to celebrate!!
When we did get to Auke Harbor it was packed!!! It is 1st come 1st serve and you cannot reserve a spot unless you are over 65ft and they put you on the outside of breakwater. Well, there was NOTHING except one spot on the outside of the breakwater. We were very bummed about this after but we were tired and needed to dock the boat. We pulled in and made her fast! The breakwater dock is concrete and skinny with large open squares 6ft x 6 ft of open water every 6ft along the dock that divides the middle of the dock. It is not clear the purpose of these open-water areas.
After I made the spring line fast ( along the center of the boat), I then went to grab our stern line and make it fast ( tie her up on the cleat). Our lines are long, so I backed up a bit and FELL into one of those center openings. I was so surprised and horrified! The edges of those docks have lots of barnacles ready to cut you up. Additionally, this one had large bolts sticking out along the edge every foot or so. It was pouring rain. I had my Xrtatuf boots on and several layers. I was not cold but I think my adrenaline was going. I pulled myself out SO FAST. I did get an abrasion on my thigh but my rain pants and long johns did not even tear?! Thank goodness for my layers that saved me a nasty cut and that I would be concerned about a later infection. I kept thinking of all the other horrific outcomes with those big bolts sticking out and thanked all my guardian angels once again. I do make them quite busy sometimes- HA!
Dave showed up shortly after with beers in tow, and fancy gin, and tonics in a can and the celebration of our safe arrival started! We had not seen him since he was on Soulstice down in Hawaii. And now Soulstice is up in Alaska! Can you move your home like that? Wild! We enjoyed ourselves immensely, with lots of laughter, and eventually, the sleep gremlins came and got us.
We knew we did not want to stay on the outside of the breakwater because you get all the boat wakes, chop and your boat takes a beating. We do have generously sized fenders but still not a place you want to stay. Dave and I did some re-con and started to look for another spot for Soulstice once we got up and had a coffee in us. Stephen stayed back and turned the ignition key a few times.
Soulstice would not start as suspected and so moving the boat was not going to happen unless we could get her started. To complicate things more, we were parallel parked in a tight spot ( analogy for you city folks) but essentially true. With this wind and current pushing us on the dock, it was impossible to get our bow out of there. Backing up was not possible due to the boat behind us. And we are not a motor boat folks. The engine does not have that kind of power, we have a 9,000 lb keel to move around and no bow thrusters. I am really desiring bow thrusters as of late!!!
Our neighbors were not moving anytime soon either. 1st things 1st though, Stephen did a jump start again and OK we were in business to move if we COULD…. He then took the VHF radio to the end of the breakwater dock. He said I am going to hail the 1st skiff I see and offer them some money to pull our bow out to help us. He did not see a skiff but a smaller fishing boat. He called me and said, “Get ready!” Dave was not around and was up by the office at this time. We called him and asked if he could hurry back.
This fishing boat idled up by our bow on the starboard side. I moved the bow line over to the starboard cleat. I did not need it even tied down on the port side because we were forcefully being pushed again the dock anyway with current and wind. I threw the fisherman the line and he tied it on his boat. He started to drive away but Stephen was not even on the boat at the time—AAAHH! He was on the dock still untying our Stern line ( port side). I yelled at Stephen to hurry up, this guy is pulling us out NOW! I asked the fisherman to please wait a second and he said, “Come on Lady!!” I realized there was not a discussion on the timing and as soon as I handed him the line he was ready to GO!
Stephen, magically, untied the stern line and was back in the cockpit at the helm and the fisherman pulled our bow out. We put an additional fender at our port stern knowing this could be damaged by someone pulling our bow out. The fisherman pulled us slightly forward and out and Stephen was able to use the engine to guide Soulstice out of this tight parallel boat parking spot. No harm and no foul to Soulstice, the boats in front and behind us, and also to the fisherman’s boat. Again, I felt like our Guardian Angels sprinkled some fairy dust our way and we were grateful. The fisherman would not take any money too.
Even funnier, the one and only open spot we found to move to, the fisherman took- HAHa! It is first come first serve and so what could we say? He just helped us too! We made another lap around and I saw this big boat leaving the channel. Stephen and I went back to the adjacent dock and saw this end side tie with a perfect port set up…. OMG!!! Only one boat in front of us, just perfect size for a 40ft, and our stern would not be hanging out in the channel - Unbelievable, score again Guardian Angels!!! How many favors can you get in such a short period of time?!
And so here Soulstice rests, D dock, in Auke Bay, on a side tie! Pheeewww!!
Now time to sort out this solenoid/starter issue so we can actually enjoy Juneau, do some hikes, and be ready for our flight up Anchorage in a week.
Another funny aside -I am at Safeway, using their free Internet to blog. I get a coffee to feel more legit. I have 3-4 bars with Tmobile when elsewhere but it still circles and won't upload anything. As I am in the section by Starbucks with tables there, I note many others like me....the folks mooching off the free internet of public places. This lifestyle does require a little extra effort at times and I am not alone.
ALL THE PICTURES BELOW ARE GOING THROUGH THE WRANGELL NARROWS , TRANSITION TO NIGHTTIME IN FREDERICK SOUND TO STEPHEN'S PASSAGE
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